How to stop cats from scratching furniture

You cannot stop a cat from scratching, but you can move the scratching off the furniture. Put a sturdy scratcher right beside the spot your cat already uses, make the furniture itself unpleasant to scratch for a while with a cover or double-sided tape, and keep the claws trimmed. Many cats switch within a few weeks when all three are done together.

Punishment does not work, and declawing is not the answer. Scratching is normal, necessary cat behavior, so the aim is to give it somewhere better to happen.

Why do cats scratch furniture?

Scratching does several jobs at once, and none of them is spite.

• Claw care. Scratching pulls off the worn outer layer of each claw and exposes the sharp new one underneath.
• Stretching. A full-length scratch works the toes, legs, shoulders and back, which is why cats often do it right after waking.
• Marking. Scratching leaves a visible mark and a scent from glands in the paws. Cats mark the places that matter to them: beside sleeping spots, along main routes and near doors and windows.
• Excitement or tension. Many cats scratch when you come home, before a meal or when something has unsettled them.

Sofas and armchairs get chosen because they are tall, heavy enough not to wobble, covered in a fabric claws can sink into, and standing in the middle of the room where the family is. A good scratcher has to match those features.

How to stop a cat from clawing furniture: what works

Choose a scratcher your cat will use

• Sturdy. A post that tips or slides once tends to be ignored afterward. Look for a wide, heavy base or one that fixes to a wall.
• Long enough for a full stretch. A healthy adult cat needs a post taller than its body at full reach, or a horizontal pad long enough to stand on while scratching.
• The right surface. Sisal rope or fabric, corrugated cardboard, rough carpet backing and bare wood are all popular. Look at what your cat picks now. A cat that shreds the arm of the sofa wants a vertical surface. A cat that works on the rug wants a flat one.
• Enough of them. In a home with several cats, aim for at least one per cat, in different rooms.

Put it where the scratching already happens

Placement matters as much as the scratcher itself. A post in a back room will not replace a sofa in the living room. Stand the new scratcher directly in front of or beside the damaged spot, and put another near where your cat sleeps.

Once your cat is using it every day, you can move it a short distance at a time toward where you would prefer it. Do not carry your cat to the post and rub its paws on it. Most cats dislike that, and it can put them off the post.

Make the post more attractive

Catnip or silver vine rubbed on the post draws many cats to it, though some cats do not respond to either. Dragging a wand toy up the post so your cat grabs the surface during play also helps. Reward use with a treat or attention in the moment.

Synthetic pheromone products made to draw cats to a scratcher have some small supportive studies behind them, and results vary. They work alongside a good post in the right place, not in place of one.

How to protect furniture from cats while the habit changes

Blocking the old spot and offering the new one at the same moment is what makes the change stick. Covers only need to stay on until the post has become the habit.

• Double-sided tape or sticky sheets made for furniture. Cats dislike a tacky surface under their paws.
• Clear plastic or vinyl corner guards.
• A tightly tucked blanket or throw, so there is nothing firm to sink claws into.

Test tape on a hidden patch first, because it can mark leather and delicate fabric.

Trim the claws

A trimmed claw does far less damage. Clip only the sharp, clear tip, well short of the pink quick, every few weeks. If you have not done it before, ask the vet clinic or a groomer to show you once.

Soft plastic nail caps glued over trimmed claws are another option some owners use. They need replacing as the claws grow and not every cat tolerates them, so ask your vet whether they suit your cat.

How to keep cats from scratching furniture: home remedies

Some home deterrents help as a short-term block. Others do nothing, and a few are harmful.

Stress makes scratching worse, which is one reason punishment backfires. If your cat has been exposed to an essential oil and is drooling, wobbly or unwell, call your vet or an animal poison control line right away.

How do I keep my cat from digging on my furniture?

Digging or raking at cushions, mattresses and the seat of a sofa is usually the same behavior done on a flat surface. The answer is the same too: a large horizontal scratcher, such as a cardboard pad or a sisal mat, placed on or beside the spot, and a cover on the furniture for a few weeks.

Kneading, the slow push with alternating front paws, is different. It is a comfort behavior, and a thick blanket kept on your cat's favorite seat protects the fabric underneath.

Why declawing is not the answer

Declawing is not a nail trim. It is surgery that amputates the end bone of each toe. Some studies have linked it to lasting pain in some cats, and to more biting and litter box problems, though findings vary.

It is banned or restricted in many countries and in a growing number of US states and cities, and major veterinary organizations discourage or oppose it as a way to manage scratching. Scratchers, covers and trims solve the same problem without surgery.

Scratching in older cats

Senior cats often scratch less, and that creates its own problem. Their claws grow thicker and more brittle with age, the outer layers stop shedding, and the claws may no longer pull back fully. They catch on carpet and upholstery. Left alone, a claw can curl around and grow into the paw pad, which is painful and can become infected.

Stiff, sore joints are often the reason. A cat with arthritis may find it painful to reach up a tall post, in the same way it stops jumping onto high surfaces. If your cat has given up its post, see why an old cat stops jumping and the signs of pain in senior pets.

What helps an older cat:

• Low, heavy scratchers that cannot tip, and flat or gently angled pads it can use without stretching upward.
• A scratcher beside the bed, since older cats may not walk far to find one.
• Regular claw checks, including the dewclaws on the inside of the front legs, which get the least wear.
• More frequent trims. Thick claws can split, so ask the vet clinic to do them if they are hard to cut.

Overgrown claws often go along with a coat that is no longer kept up. If that sounds familiar, read why an old cat stops grooming. The senior cat guide covers the other routine checks for an aging cat.

When to talk to the vet

• A claw that has grown into the pad, or a paw that is swollen, bleeding or smells bad
• Limping, or licking or chewing at a paw
• An older cat that has stopped scratching altogether or struggles to use its post
• A sudden increase in scratching, especially with urine marking or hiding, which can point to stress or illness
• Claws too thick or brittle to trim safely at home

This article is general educational information about cat scratching behavior and is not veterinary or behavioral advice. Changes in how an older cat scratches, moves or uses its claws can be a sign of pain or illness. Decisions about your cat's claws, comfort and health should be made with your veterinarian.